Chefchaouen from Fes: What Three Hours in the Blue City Buys You
Chefchaouen sits in the Rif mountains a long way north of Fes, and almost everybody who goes there from Fes goes for the day. We did the same on New Year's Eve. Our first photograph in the town is at 13:03 and the last at 16:13, and we were back in Fes by ten in the evening — so call it under three hours on the ground against a full day of driving.
It was enough. The medina is small, it is built on a slope, and the thing you came for — every wall, step and doorframe painted some version of blue — is apparent within about four minutes of arriving. What three hours does not buy you is the town at the two times it is actually at its best: early morning before the day trippers, and evening after they have gone. If the blue city is the reason you are coming to Morocco, sleep there.
It rained on us. We arrived to wet streets and grey light, and we are not going to pretend otherwise: the blue is at its most extraordinary in strong sun, when it goes luminous, and we did not get that. The photographs of Chefchaouen that look like a dream were taken on a different kind of day from ours.
And it was still worth the drive. Wet stone turns the lanes a deeper, darker blue than the postcards do, the cobbles hold the colour in their puddles, and the rain emptied the streets of everyone who was not committed. We walked slower, ducked into doorways, waited out a shower over mint tea, and came away liking the place. Do not cancel on the forecast. A wet three hours in Chefchaouen is better than no three hours in Chefchaouen — just do not plan the photograph of a lifetime around it.
How we got there, and what it cost
We took the small-group day trip from Fes — eight to seventeen people in a minibus — booked for 31 December 2025 with an 08:00 pickup. It cost €42 for two, which is €21 a head, and that is the transport only: no guide on the ground in Chefchaouen, no lunch, no entry to anything (nothing in the town charges entry anyway).
At twenty-one euros a person for roughly eight hours in a vehicle, it is one of the better-value things we booked in Morocco — a grand taxi chartered privately for the same route runs several times that, and the public bus takes longer and strands you on the return. The trade-off is the one above: the minibus decides when you arrive and when you leave, and it arrives in the middle of the day, which is the worst light and the busiest streets. If you want the town empty, this is the wrong way to see it. If you want to see it at all, on a trip built around Fes, it is the sane way.

